When the winner of the 2020 Best Designer award at Seoul Fashion Week announced a collection to debut during London Fashion Week it turned heads. For a long time the conveyor belt of designers from South Korea has been as full as it has been excellent, but how would one of the rising stars of the industry fair in the most creative of European fashion weeks?
We were treated to one of the stand out video contributions of the season, the looks being projected via an almost cinematic production set against an austere concrete landscape. The lines and firmness were underpinned by a minimalist yet hypnotic musical accompaniment. To take the runway concept and transplant it into the spaces that created the influence worked really well and tying the conceptual pieces back to the habitat that is their inspiration was a masterstroke.
But what about the looks themselves, the tailoring was impeccable, the sharpness of the looks offset by the use of oversized pieces and strapped loose fabric to create contrast in the cut but also more importantly in the movement. The shrewd use of unfinished seems here and there added some playful details, and in these tiny almost unnoticed details we saw the mind of MAXXIJ, the selected notes of a hand moving through the ideas.
In case I’ve left you unsure of my feelings towards the collection, THIS WAS GREAT and will be looking to add pieces to my personal wardrobe, as I often say, there is no better endorsement of a label than wanting to buy it with your own money.
By Ross Pollard – Emerging Designers Editor